Summary
Powerful, deep, and complex, Oud in perfumery is difficult to grasp—like whiskey the first time, but once you love it, you’re hooked. Here are the answers to all your questions about this iconic perfumery ingredient.
First of all, what is Oud made of?
Oud is derived from the Aquilaria tree's resin-soaked wood, secreted when the tree is attacked and then infected by a fungus. However, not all damaged Aquilaria (aka Agarwood) trees produce Oud, and not all infections are enough to create it. That’s why Oud is so expensive.
In its natural state, Aquilaria wood is light and odorless. Only about 2% to 10% of these trees produce Oud. For oud to form, the tree must be attacked (by fire, animals, or humans) and then infected by fungi such as Phialophora or Cunninghamella. The tree responds by producing dark, fragrant aromatic resins to protect itself. This liquid saturates the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree over the years, turning it into the resinous heartwood Oud.
In controlled plantations, it takes between 3 and 10 years to create Oud. In the wild, this can take several decades, and an Aquilaria tree must be at least 30 years old to produce quality Oud. It’s also impossible to predict in advance which tree will produce Oud and in what quantity. Aquilaria wood is now a protected species under CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species). Many trees are artificially treated with microbial compounds to produce Oud.
That’s why Oud is called "black gold" or "liquid gold"—so rare and hard to obtain that it costs as much as gold: between $30,000 and $100,000 per kilogram. Simple as that.
Why is Oud such a renowned ingredient in perfumery?
Oud has been used in religious rituals for centuries. The name "Agarwood" comes from the Sanskrit "Aguru," meaning Oud. It was used by the Egyptians before Islam, and early Chinese societies. It was commonly burned as offerings to the gods, earning it the nickname "Wood of the Gods." The same is true in Hinduism and Buddhism, where Oud was considered calming and used for meditation.
Oud gained significance in Arab Muslim culture. The Prophet Muhammad is said to have been fond of perfumes, particularly Oud. In Islamic tradition, pleasant scents, especially Oud, are valued for their ability to purify the soul and elevate the spirit. Oud is often mentioned in Islamic texts as a material that brings one closer to God, used to bless places and people.
Oud is commonly burned in mosques for Friday prayers, creating a meditative atmosphere for prayer, similar to its use in Buddhism. It is also used in funeral rites.
Oud’s cultural significance, combined with its rarity and complexity, has made it very expensive, turning it into a symbol of wealth. Its high price meant only the wealthiest could use it generously in their homes or religious rituals. It even became an ostentatious gesture when welcoming guests, demonstrating one's wealth and power.
How did Oud become a must-have note in perfumery?
Now that you know the origins of Oud, let’s talk about its unique and complex scent. Oud has a woody, powerful, smoky aroma with animalistic and leathery undertones, like freshly tanned leather. So in answer to the question ‘what does oud smell like?’, the answer is simple: its scent is unique because it’s very different from other woods.
Oud scent is also famous for its strength and longevity, making it a favorite note for those who love bold, long-lasting fragrances.
The distinctive long-lasting scent profile of Oud, combined with perfumery's interest in rare and unique ingredients, has made this resinous wood one of the most popular notes in perfumery, especially for those who appreciate "oriental" notes (an outdated term for scents inspired by Arab culture). Tom Ford's Oud Wood was the first mainstream perfume featuring Oud in 2007. It was followed by Oud Royal by Creed in 2011 and Oud Ispahan in 2012. And now, Oud Rose in 2024 (yes, we’re plugging our products, too). Niche perfumery, which loves working with surprising notes, has contributed to the popularity of the scent in the West. Now, almost every brand has an Oud cologne or fragrance.
Natural Oud’s scent varies depending on the type of Aquilaria wood used and the overall quality of the Oud. Some resins—and thus Oud—are softer, while others are smokier.
Due to its price, quality variation, and the protection of Aquilaria trees, many brands (if not all) now use synthetic Oud fragrance notes.
Oud Rose
Oud Rose by Horace is a refined and extravagant fragrance—like wearing a leopard-print tuxedo to the opera. It’s designed to make you stand out. Its top notes include Geranium Rose, Rosemary, and Blackcurrant Bud, offering a fresh, vibrant, and slightly fruity start, reminiscent of a rose opening. In the heart, there’s a bold, spicy Damascus Rose, accompanied by Patchouli for its woody strength. Finally, the base is a powerful, sensual, and mysterious combination of Oud, Sandalwood, and Cypriol. Oud Rose is unforgettable.
So, will you try Oud?